ZUHAIR MURAD, After the Dark, the Light | Paris Haute Couture S/S 26

In the sun-drenched grand spaces of the Palais de Tokyo, Zuhair Murad delivered a masterclass in fashion-as-optimism for his Spring/Summer 2026 Haute Couture collection.

Titled “Chiaroscuro,” the collection serves as a poetic declaration of rebirth after dark times, proving that pure, unfiltered beauty remains our greatest act of resistance. Murad pulled inspiration from two golden eras of rebirth: the humanism of the Italian Renaissance and the transformative glamour of the 1950s.

The result was a breathtaking procession of silhouettes that felt like masterwork paintings come to life, moving from deep shadows into radiant, peaceful light. The collection masterfully balances structure and fluid sensuality, utilizing heavy, pristine fabrics like duchess satin and mikado to construct architectural foundations, only to soften them with cascading faille, diaphanous chiffon, and body-hugging jersey.

The real magic, however, lies in the intricate detailing executed by Murad’s ateliers, where dozens of embroiderers worked to construct surfaces designed entirely in sfumato – a technique of blurring edges to mimic the hand-ground pigments of Renaissance masters.

Soft, diaphanous pastels emerge almost imperceptibly from deep, shadowy undertones, elevated by silk-thread embroidery blended with ultra-fine metallic strands and discreet cabochons meticulously mapped to mimic cathedral ceilings and time-worn Italian frescoes.

Delicate, protective metallic chains draped across the shoulders and waists like wearable relics. With sculpted hips, commanding volumes, and dramatic overskirts that trailed behind models on the runway, Murad didn’t just dress the body, he built a soft armor for the modern sovereign woman.

Watch the full runway footage of Zuhair Murad’s S/S 26 show on FTV!

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